New winds over "a world roof".
New winds over "a world roof".
Rudolf SMOOTH, a correspondent of ITAR-TASS - specially for
"The parliamentary newspaper".
Near to the Tibetan city of Tingri the automobile motor
Has decayed at height of 5230 metres. Left the car to be kneaded, but
Powerful impulses of a wind knocked down. Dressed in the thick
"Down-padded coats", all of us equally quickly prodrogli also have returned in
The car.
- At this height the motor knocks often because of the rarefied
Air, - the driver-Chinese explains.
By the way, tibettsa you will seldom see at the wheel, as they to these
Time believe, that wheel transport troubles spirits of the earth, and
For this reason it has been forbidden here till 1950.
We followed from Katmandu - capitals of Nepal - to Lhasa -
Capital of the Tibetan independent area of China. On the average Tibet
Towers above sea level on 4 thousand metres, for what it and
Name "a world roof". But this "roof" abrupt and rough (with
One party - subtropics, in the southwest, with another - cold
Semi-deserts, in the northwest), with set of valleys, mountain
Ridges and lakes which are scattered on the different geographical
Widths and heights, as defines a variety of landscapes in
Different parts of Tibet which territory makes 1,2 million
Sq. km, or the eighth part of China.
The Tibetan city of Khasa first along the line is located
On a slope of the lowest in a chain of the Himalayas of pass
Kodari-Tingri (its height - 1770 metres above sea level),
Through which in 1967 Chineses have laid a motorway from
Lhasa to Katmandu and since 80th years have resolved the foreign
To tourists to visit Tibet from Nepal. However, a stream
Tourists it is insignificant.
Khasa is an one hundred two-storeyed houses with flat roofs and
Yellow, blue and white facades, amphitheatre of the located
On a green slope. Trade here is in full swing in shops and
Directly in streets. Nepaleses and tibettsy bargain. In a course dollars,
Yuans, Nepalese rupees, English pounds or simply barter.
Nepaleses offer bags with an onion, garlic, tomatoes,
Fruit, carrots, and tibettsy - a wool, carpets, Chinese
Textiles, thermoses, clothes, footwear and other consumer goods. Scurry about
Porters with huge bales of the goods on shoulders.
Trading exchange encourage the power and China, and Nepal. On
To the contract on mutual trade of Tibet and Nepal dealers on both
The border parties have acquired the right to cross it without any visas and
To go deep on territory each other on 30 kilometres.
Goods turnover is measured hundreds millions dollars a year. It
Gives the chance to Nepal to sate the market Chinese
Products, and tibettsam - to fill up a lack of the vegetables and
Fruit.
From Khasy the way to depth of Tibet goes on cut in the steep
Mountain rocks to a motorway along deep and twisting gorge.
Below the river Bhotekosi (Tibetan name pochu), above roars
The sky strip is looked through, on roadsides the greens come across:
The juniper, blossoming bushes. At departure from gorge
The world of greens and colours has come to an end. We have appeared on a plateau in
The desolate world of grey stone hills. In tone to it and settlement
Njalam (3750 metres above sea level): one-storeyed houses from
The same grey stone, from it high fences are combined. Through
Entrance cracks of fences look through the windows of the houses which have turned black from
kizjachnogo a smoke. In court yard horses, donkeys and sheep walk. Therefrom
Heart-rending bark of the dogs, ready to tear apart a stranger is distributed.
Tibettsy know customs of the furious dogs and, calming them,
Leave to us and friendly smile. At them bronze from
Mountain winds and looking like the American Indians with high cheek-bones
Persons, slanting cuts of eyes in which at adults are read
Vigilance and curiosity, at children - boldness and slyness.
On men - black quilted jackets and caps of especially Tibetan breed.
Heads of women are wound by dark scarfs. They muffle so
It is not so much from a cold, how much from a dust which carry on
To plateau winds.
Inhabitants Njalama willingly tell about value of the multi-coloured
Prayful flags which are rinsed on a wind over everyone
The house. One flags they drive away evil ghosts, others -
Ask about favour of gods, the third - pray for forgiveness sins. Nearby
From settlement up to foothills last weeding, on mezhah which
Poles with prayful flags are visible. Before the earths will concern
Plough, monks over a field should say mantras, that is
To start talking it for a crop, then to scatter over it too
Started talking "tsampu" (the Tibetan porridge), and in completion
Ceremony on field perimetre to thrust poles with started talking on
Crop flags and only after that to start ploughing.
We go further, to depth of Tibet. Only a lifeless kingdom
Stone hills, many of which are covered by snow. But here
altmetr shows height of 5230 metres. To breathe begins
More difficultly, the head hoots. Glohnet the motor. More than hour the engine not
It was got. The gale-force wind has not allowed to leave, and we have dozed off in
To the car.
After a while to our driver has approached dressed in
The short fur coat tibetets, something to it has told, showing to a hand on a heap
Stones, utykannuju poles with prayful flags. The driver
Has lifted from a roadside a heavy cobble-stone and has incurred it towards this
Heaps. Having set up a cobble-stone on its top, it has returned to the car,
Has switched on ignition, and the engine was got at once.
We have continued a way and in road have taken an interest, as it
It was possible to get the car. The Chinese artfully smiled and was silent, and
Knowing not only Tibetan language, but also customs and customs
tibettsev our companion, Japanese Tatsui Okayama, has explained: "These heaps
Stones arise there where there lives an evil ghost who will not pass
You further while you to a heap will not add the stone and not
Will say the necessary mantra. Tibetets this mantra has said,
The driver needed to put a stone. The evil ghost has disappeared, and the car
It was got ".
To the city of Tingri (height of 4342 metres) it is arrived zatemno.
Hotels here are not present. Them never also did not build across all Tibet,
As any tibetets can count on a lodging for the night,
Friendly reception and a food at any time. Hotels in
To Lhasa, Khase, SHigadze and a number of other Tibetan cities -
The phenomenon new. They began to appear since then, when
Confirmed the power in Tibet Chineses have counted on
Attraction of tourists, have started to repair destroyed earlier
Temples to build roads, power stations and hotels. To Tingri
The Chinese builders of hotels yet do not send in addition, and to us have found a place
In empty soldier's barracks where the Chinese took places
Military garrison.
Nearly not reaching SHigadze, we turn aside India and we go
95 kilometres about one Gjandze (3800 metres above sea level),
Where gather on the daily auctions with production
Farmers, cattlemen and handicraftsmen from all neighbouring villages. Hundreds
Years the city is famous as the important shopping centre - there conduct
Roads from the next areas of Tibet, from Butane, Sikkim and India.
It the British soldiers of colonial India also have used,
When in 1904 have made an attempt to grasp Gjandze and
To subdue all Tibet, however have come across the desperate
Resistance at walls of defensive fort Gjandze also are compelled
Were to recede.
That is why many Chinese analysts consider, what not
Struggle against medieval forms of religiousness is so much in
Tibet where the higher hierarch lamaistskoj has concentrated churches in
The hands and all completeness of the administrative power, how much
The increased appetites of the western countries to this Chinese area
Have caused input to Tibet the Chinese armies in 1951.
CIA has developed in the fifties scale secret operation in
Tibet under the code name "ST Circus". As wrote recently
American magazine "п я я я я п п ", the USA tried to involve and
The dalaj-llama on the party, having promised military and financial
The help. CIA trained enlisted tibettsev in the State of Colorado with
Absolutely definite purpose - to take Tibet under the control
As the important strategic area of China rich with the useful
Minerals. And itself the Dalaj-llama recognised in interviews,
That, still being at the power in Tibet, knew about actions of CIA,
Trying to hire tibettsev. When all has failed,
The dalaj-llama ran to India in 1959 under the pretext of the commoner, and
Secret operations of CIA in Tibet proceeded and, by data
"Njusuik", managed to Washington on 1,7 million dollars a year.
Nevertheless the Chinese heads constantly invite
The dalaj-llama to return to Tibet, the truth, not as the governor,
And as the first church hierarch. Here such facts
Are recollected at powerful defensive walls of fort Gjandze,
Which and looks today unapproachably.
Our expectations, that we will see today's Lhasa the occupied
Chineses a civil city, whence together with the Dalaj-llama has left
And the Buddha, were not justified. Yes, streets are asphalted, in a city
Intensive building is conducted, there were modern
Hotels, theatre, hospitals, schools, shopping centres and even
New houses are constructed not in the Tibetan style. But the city has not lost
The shape as the centre of a spiritual life tibettsev, in a basis
Which the cult of the Buddha lays. And business not that over all
Old and new structures still majestic
The 13-storeyed palace of the Dalaj-llama - potala, constructed dominates
In XVII century. After all not only this unique palace (110
Metres in height and 360 metres at length, over 10 thousand halls,
kumiren, rooms) Lhasa is famous. We were convinced, that were saved
Also such important relics tibettsev, as temples function
Dzhokang and Drepung, monasteries of the Sir, Gendan, Vrajbun and many
Others. Them have not touched hunvejbiny: both Beijing has not allowed, and llamas
Have defended. And that have been destroyed, Chineses today
Restore.
Continually religiousness displays are evident
tibettsev. It and prayful flags over each Tibetan house.
Before temple Dzhokang believers daily show the
Belief in the Buddha. Standing with the hands combined in a pray, muttering
Sacred spells, dropping to the earth, then rising and
Again repeating these movements, hundreds men, women and children in
Black clothes and bright aprons all day and night do not leave
The area before a temple. And on ring street the Hook the big crowds
In the evenings defile clockwise, having turned to a temple,
As that is demanded by custom as a sign of honouring of the Buddha. Looking at it,
It is difficult to believe to the western propagation, as if in Tibet today
The religion chokes. I will repeat, that brigades of Chineses repair
Simultaneously tens Buddhist temples.
And they podremontirovali also have tinted a palace of the Dalaj-llama. And
These are the huge areas of what I was personally convinced. Has come into a palace
Till a dinner, counting on pair of hours but so has taken a great interest
Examining of wall lists (it in ten thousand
Rooms!), executed on white silk, statues budd and bodisatv
(And them in a palace of ten thousand), throne halls, premises,
Offices, bedrooms and tombs of dalaj-llamas that has not noticed how
Has passed seven hours. Having felt hunger, was going to to leave, and
Around - not a soul. Not so attentive protection in the name of llamas,
Having considered, that anybody from visitors did not remain, has locked on
Locks all halls and premises. I also ran on kumirnjam among
Gilt bodisatv, rejecting frightening reddish
Reflected lights. But all massive doors have appeared on chains and locks.
It was necessary to rattle chains and to beat feet on doors. The rumble has gone on
To all temple. Terribly surprised llamas and at last have come running
Have let out me. Till now I recollect this history as terrible
Dream. But a trip to Tibet I recollect as travel in
Absolutely other world distinct from ours where the life flows in
Other measurement about which it is possible to tell much, yes
The newspaper place does not suffice.
//* an information Source: the Parliamentary newspaper, 3.09.99
//* Reg. Nom. - 1090900039.37-------------------------------------------
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