On wild steppes of Transbaikalia.
On wild steppes of Transbaikalia.
Vladimir FIRSOV. Angarsk - Transbaikalia.
Appointment to native places always excites. I was not in
Transbaikalia already is a lot of years. And only sometimes in a dream saw it
Marvellous corners. Transbaikalia - a miscellaneous. In the last century Anton
Pavlovich Chekhov on the travel to Sakhalin has noticed, that in
It is possible to meet Transbaikalia and mountain beauty of Switzerland, and
The Asian deserts, and deaf taiga... Yes, something from the former
Beauty here still remains. However, the protogenic nature,
As if using present liholetem, wins from the person
The cultivated open spaces of edge. And the civilisation, similar, recedes.
From railway station we went with the friend to the childhood
Volodej Makushevym, and I have been unpleasantly amazed by changes in
To capital of Transbaikalia. The present wild market economy has imposed
To Chita the print - trading pavilions, booths, tents,
Street trays. It is a lot of Chineses and so-called persons of the Caucasian
Nationalities. And all of them, similar, do not complain of destiny.
- Feel here owners, - has confirmed mine
Supervision Volodja. - They, as a rule, do not trade.
Type on this job of little girls and young women. Then
Arrange with it large shortage and gradually become them
Absolute masters...
- Well and what fathers, husbands, brothers-they that? Cannot them
To protect?
- To protect? - Has sadly asked again Volodja and has braked
The car. - you see, the booth has two bichovskogo a kind,
For certain ask a bottle from the relative. For this
bormotuhu all also excuse...
For other day I was engaged in the affairs. Tried in the beginning
To phone to some regional official bodies.
But phones were silent. It was necessary to go to search for these most
The organisations. On a place it was found out, that phones are disconnected for
Non-payment. The electric power too in a city quite often disconnect.
Which week there is no hot water.
In the evening I call in settlement Sherlovaja Mountain of Borzinsky area
To fellow countryman Dmitry Makarovichu Shvalovu. Audibility bad.
And on an ear it already tugovat - 80 years to the grandfather. But as soon as has learnt,
That I am going to in native places, have there and then informed, that I have arrived
Very opportunely: grandson Alexey has gone on leave also we can three together
On its "Japanese" to go to Aleksandrovo-factory area
Almost for 160 kilometres.
One more night in a train. Early in the morning we pass the number
Travelling which have been densely occupied several years ago
Military men, technics. But the army as if has receded in the unknown person
Direction. Behind a car window, eyes, - steppe how much suffice.
In the summer after rains it becomes covered by a green carpet and
raznotrave smartly goes upwards. But hundred thousand soldiers, which
Served here once, know this steppe and another - burnt out
The scorching sun or with chilling, penetrating winds,
Lifting clouds of sand which hammers in eyes, a nose, ears,
Covers with a thick layer of an overcoat and pea jackets.
And simply it is not believed, that in any two hundred kilometres
From here absolutely other landscape: mountains, woods, the rivers, lakes. All
This good fortune begins in the southeast, on coast of Shilka,
Argun, Gazimura, other rivers and rivulets of Transbaikalia. There and
We runs "Tojota". Once line Borzja - Aleksandrovsky
Factory was asphalted and rather recovered. Trip
Buses went to station Borzja from Nerchinsk Factory, Kalgi,
Alec-factory. Now from those remote areas buses in general
Do not go. And from Alec-factory only two-three times a week.
The problem how to reach from those places station, became almost
The unsoluble.
Settlement Zaozernaja. We have driven half of way. For this time
There was only one military lorry. At a streamlet
Have stopped to have dinner. There was a midday July heat.
Air is given to drink by a stupefying smell of grasses and colours. Here everyone
bylinka bears the unique aroma. Grasses have covered now
All is no time carefully processed fields. The expanse would be
To numerous flocks of sheep. But they too have disappeared, as well as herds
Cows. And who will risk nowadays to let out the burenku far from
At home. Here the day before we stayed with fellow countrymen Pljaskinyh in
Haranore. Mistress Anna complained through tears:
- I cannot you and with a fresh milk to treat. At night
korovushku ours killed directly in a court yard. Have left only a head
Yes hoofs...
- In war such cases happened, - recollects Dmitry
Makarovich, - the truth, then militia such crimes
Opened quickly...
- But then was difficult military and post-war liholete. And
How to name present time, a present mode?
As if having guessed my thoughts, Alexey, grandson Dmitry Makarovicha,
Thoughtfully peering in far to a horizon smoke, has told:
- doreformirovalis - any arable land, any flock not
It is visible...
Reflecting on a life of the fellow countrymen, I have not noticed, how the car
Before village Bazanovo has curtailed to a curative source.
Transbaikalia is famous for curative waters. "Bazanovsky" treats
Liver, bilious bubble, pancreas...
Having had a drink waters and having filled all capacities, that at us were, we
Have hastened in Alec-factory, to former my fellows villager Tjukavkinym
And Skazhutinym. It is remembered, in last arrivals mistress Galja
Skazhutina always treated us with the fresh milk cooled in
Cellar. And recently and them has comprehended misfortune. On the marshy
To meadow where cows were grazed, the column of a high-voltage line has fallen down.
From blow by a current was lost a little animal, including
burenka Skazhutinyh.
vasja Skazhutin with which we were on friendly terms since the childhood, hardly
Has recovered from a heart attack. Not the one ten years it has worked
The driver of the long-distance bus. In district all knew Vasju as
The joker and the merry fellow. Close to heart he has apprehended all
The changes, all drudgeries of acquaintances, especially old men, and heart
Has not sustained... Now vasja receives small pension,
Works on an economy.
Ultimate goal of our travel was has sat down Bohto, that in 25
Kilometres from Alec-factory. Here once was MTS. And we,
16-17-п п я п?п п boys, after the termination of school of mechanisation
Agriculture in Bottom SHahtame were going to here
To work long years. But alas! Khruschev liquidated MTS, and we
Have parted who where.
Having driven through all village Bohto, have stopped at our fellow countryman
Grigory Konstantinovicha Makusheva. Recently with the wife
Lidoj it has celebrated gold wedding. There have arrived all sons and
Daughters, grandsons and great-grandsons. The spacious house has hardly contained all
Relatives. It is difficult to believe, that domishche Grigory has constructed this
One. It has put it still in Ust-Alenue. But, when village
Declared unpromising and began to settle, Grigory has transported
The house in Bohto. Muzhiks-fellows villager named it "stozhilnym".
It was valid, absolutely hard to go on wood, to select
Pines for sruba, and then to cut trees and to take out loshadmi.
But here that is interesting. In Bohto Grigory became forest wardens and
Has returned to wood of trees in ten thousand times more, than took to itself
For the house. Plantations lesoposadok in area is his hands business.
However vesnoju any slovens have arranged has fallen on fields. Fire
It was threw on lesoposadki, have burnt out hundreds hectares of the young
Woods. Grigory Konstantinovich even was ill with experiences. And
For the first time in seventy took in hands pososhok.
In the next village Kuznetsovo son Grigory works as the forest warden
Konstantinovicha - Vladimir. Was the chairman of collective farm. It was wound
On kolkhoz fields, rest did not know. The greatest head
Pain - where to take combustive-lubricating materials? Cut on meat
Milk cows. Sold and on these pennies bought solar oil,
Gasoline. But PETROLEUM PRODUCTS did not reach collective-farm cars. Them took away
At night at whom were available personal tractors. In a word,
Arable lands remained not ploughed. Has not sustained Volodja, has left from
Chairmen.
Village without an arable land! It is difficult to believe in this absurdity, but it
So. It something like the river without water.
- So where you take grain, a flour? - I have asked another
The fellow countryman, Nikolay Afanasevicha Makusheva, from most
The remote village of area - Krasnojarovo.
- We change for sour cream. 13 kgs of sour cream on a bag
Torments...
Having received pension, 70-year-old Nikolay Afanasevich has arrived for 50
Kilometres in area over tea, sugar, salt, matches: any
Shops in the remote villages are not present. However, navedyvajutsja there
Caucasians, buy meat on 7 roubles for kg. Old men and
To that are glad. Though any copeck. Still Chineses bring the
Vodka in plastic bottles. Its quality is not guaranteed. Not
Time happened, muzhiks were poisoned. And basically vodka there is on sale
From Vladikavkaz, too not better quality.
In Transbaikalia it is a lot of Caucasians. And almost all of them are engaged
Trade. Buy up meat, a potato, other vegetables on cheap stuff and
pereprodajut vtridoroga. However, in the next area two families
Chechens were engaged in agriculture, specialised in
Animal industries. But they managed after the own fashion and not so
Long. In collective farm to them have entrusted to graze a flock of sheep. In half a year
Chechens have disappeared together with a flock...
And what our farmers? Where they? In area I was naslyshan about
One. It would be desirable to meet it, porassprosit about
Life-byte. But after has heard history with soldiers,
To speak with it it was ceased to want. And business was so. A part management
Has agreed with the farmer about deliveries of a potato, cabbage. In
Time of cleaning soldiers have decided to bake potatoes and to eat -
Fed them badly. When the farmer has seen it, has grown furious,
Crucified a fire and has crushed boots a potato...
Whence such "farmer" undertook? After all zabajkaltsy differed
Always kind, sympathetic character, hlebosolstvom. Probably,
Wildness has overcome not only fields, but also souls of people. However, not
All. In the same remote village Krasnojarovo the electrical engineer has come
In one izbenku to disconnect for non-payment the electric power. In it
Time children chewed parenuju wheat. Other meal on a table not
Was. The adjuster has stood, has looked at terrifying poverty and has left,
Did not begin to cut off a wire. But its pity has soon turned back
Against it. It has been dismissed for disobedience.
Yes, not so cheerful there were my meetings with fellow countrymen.
The transbaikalian village was rolled away years on 250 back. Also is not present to
It business to the mighty of this world.
//* an information Source: the Parliamentary newspaper, 17.08.99
//* Reg. Nom. - 1090800195.24-------------------------------------------
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