Fatherland suburbs.
Fatherland suburbs.
The reporting from nasty small town.
Yes, the unenviable shortcut has hung ones and a half with superfluous centuries ago.
Lermontov on seaside Taman. One of these days it was visited by the correspondent
"PG". And, know, has risked to challenge the great poet: in a city
It is possible not only is tasty and cheaply to eat but also to have a rest.
"Taman - the nastiest small town from all seaside
Cities of Russia. I there slightly have not died from hunger... ".
These words of the classic in Tamani can be met continually.
Tamantsy are proud of the impressions received by the great poet from
Two days of stay in these places. Whether has much changed with that
Time? Behind the answer I also have gone in sung by Lermontov
"Small town".
I will tell at once, now with "fateroj" to the poet it would be easier. To it
It not should to huddle in a small hut on seacoast. After all
Near to it there is a small "one-stars" hotel on 25 cots,
Where always it is possible to be stuck. The reason of presence of empty seats -
Fabulous dearness! To local measures and 50 roubles in
Double room for days very abruptly. You would visit,
Michael Jurevich, in Anapa, that absolutely nearby. What to be created!
To the people - darkness! In private hotel it should to lay out and 200
One rubles for a night. And that: light not to switch on, visitors not to result,
Water not to use. Have arrived on the sea - here there and go!
"Fatera" in Tamani costs tridtsatku. However, rouble in
lermontovskuju a romantic epoch had absolutely other price. But
Announcements "the Dense forest having a rest" today a chalk almost on everyone
Collars. Into the specified sum by all means will enter also cherry or
Apricot tree over which it is necessary to you assiduously
To work. Yet obedite, owners home will not release you -
Such here the order, patronage is called. If you have arrived
Second time, you will accept as the relative and a payment for residing
Will be absolutely symbolical.
Now concerning stolen at the poet the blind boy of a draught
With a silver frame. Since then in Tamani there was only one theft
- Have stolen oats bag. However local Aniskin on the cow
To flat cakes of the thief has quickly calculated, and justice
Has triumphed. And here a draught yet do not send. But search. And so in
Tamani it is quiet, do not shoot. However, at Lermontov in the novel
Too did not shoot, and the author wished to drown grandly-is noble in
The sea. But it so, to a word...
Now about the small town. Michael Jurevich, oh exaggerated
As exaggerated! At all desire with hunger in Tamani well in any way
You will not die. Chebureks of the most different sizes and forms on everyone
To step. In day they a wall face to eyes, on the third
- They it is acted in film, at their kind you start to hiccup. Having looked narrowly,
You start to notice: Crimean peninsula laying through passage,
It appears, too has the cheburek form. Searches of any points
Public catering of certain results have not brought. At driven in
In the last century of cafe on a wall someone from last forces
Tried to deduce all the same quivering lermontovskie lines about
Hunger.
More and more time having weighed the possibilities, I cross a threshold
Unique all around restaurant. Gilt letters of the menu
Begin with the same reminder: here it is possible to die with
To hunger. Then follow a shish kebab from sturgeon and barabulka -
Local delicacy. Really the poet too searched for a borsch? Well, same
It is necessary, has mentioned with impressions, and this phrase already almost two centuries
To it remember! Certainly, to Lermontov it was easier: not
It was pleasant, has given a kick to the Cossack, it was developed and has left. And
Here it is necessary to suffer, lay, sunbathe! After all holiday...
On my question: "As though supchika to try?" In the local
Administrations have confoundedly frowned.
- At you that was under the literature, the sir? - It is a little
Having recovered, the secretary has dropped. - you that, Lermontov not
Read?
And it it is proud has nodded towards casting bronze on a wall
All the same, become native, lermontovskih lines.
- Instead of a borsch I can offer the tourist permit on
To mud volcanoes Tamani. In the Moscow you and a dirt
The decent did not see. And here: 33 volcanoes and the majority -
The operating! Grjazishcha - impassable! Besides it will help you
To be released from the obsessions, stirring to rest, and at the same time and
From chebureks will have a rest. Consider, to you has largely carried.
Group departure at a dawn. The permit foot. That here
To think?
No, you have hastened, Michael Jurevich, from Tamani, have hastened.
It was necessary not to examine undines (mermaids), and peshochkom
To walk, nearby, towards the nearest vinsovhoza, in ten
Minutes of walking from the central beach.
In its dining room I also have encountered the normal complex
Dinner. And in him... A long-awaited, rich borsch. In total for
Ten one rubles! And all it at the height of a resort season.
You look, and these deeply unfair lines would not be born.
But, on the other hand, than then tamantsy were proud, than
Having a rest enticed? Interestingly after all - "the nastiest
Small town "!
Gennady DIANOV. Taman.
//* an information Source: the Parliamentary newspaper, 10.08.01
//* Reg. Nom. - 1110800132.19-------------------------------------------
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