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To see Paris And to die. In Russia.

				
				
				
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To see Paris And to die. In Russia. Recently I have appeared for the first time in Paris one: my friends, Which have once again presented to me a trip, were engaged Business in Egypt. The world of large western business and the world not Especially solvent Russian journalism on this Time have faced especially eloquently. (Possibly, the destiny to me has presented thus possibility To see different Paris.). Friends they friends, but we play in this life the different Musical instruments. The cellular telephone trill as is exotic for my ears With the Oryol residence permit, as well as for them - balalaechnyj a ringing Eternally cold stream of water from the hot crane in my apartment. In the French heads did not keep within in any way: at the journalist There is no cellular telephone. In the underground at them the people - it is exclusive with Cellular (if you do not have car is does not mean, that you You can do without phone). Moscow in this sense on 10 Percent has come nearer to Paris, and in the Eagle of the person with phone In a pocket, going to a trolley bus, the people also can lynch. In general, without cellular and without a telephone map at night I It has appeared in Paris. I should be called to Egypt and To inform, that has arrived, and already therefrom should arrive The command to meet me. I have thought: I will be arranged itself in hotel For one night, from it also I will call. In hotel "Meridian" me Has confused presentable djadechka which has got the plastic Map, in hotel "п я п я п п п?я " to me have politely informed, that at them places No, and here in hotel "п п я п " it is possible to spend the night for 600 dollars. I, as could, have pretended, that me this terrible figure not Frightens, and at ourselves in edition we in day as much and receive. In 1997 I was on a visit at the same Frenchmen, they me and more One Russian family "have stopped" in very good hotel and Once in the evening behind a pleasant supper have informed, that for Europe Russian - what move the groups, all the others - Mafia. I am a representative of nice Russian mafia with heavy Bag in a hand in which some bottles "Oryol laid Imperial "vodka in a gift, two dresses and one shoes, - went on To night Paris smelling as free Europe and - roared. What It is freedom for 600 dollars? I have explained to the taxi driver, that I want To stop in very inexpensive, but very decent hotel, It is desirable two-star. Two hours we went for a drive across Paris - Hotels on "two stars" have been occupied: this year Paris has beaten all Even own records of last years by quantity of tourists, Having left pure Bruxelles and the beauty Prague far behind. The taxi driver has appeared very affable person - he ran On hotels, learnt the prices and eventually took from me for Trip it is less, than was on the counter (it is necessary to tell, taxi drivers - Radical Frenchmen - sincere persons. And politically grounded, Like to chat about Russia. One, especially not indifferent to us, Has told so: "Gorbachev for us associates with freedom, Yeltsin - with vodka, and here who such Putin, we yet have not understood "). Eventually I have stopped in the only thing free Hotel. Paris smart quarters and the Arabian hotels - two Different cities. Me warned, that in plohonkih hotels Employees do not smile and do not look to you in eyes (it Prerogative 4-star and 4 lux which have replaced in France World concept of five-star hotels). Therefore I expected, that Here all is possible - and expectations have not deceived me: on the dark To abrupt ladder I was dragged with a heavy bag itself, resourceful Assistants here were not, in strange number was not also Towels and soap, and the window was not closed at all. Having taken a nap on 10 minutes, I have heard distinctly as if it occurred in mine To room as in next number the man and the woman were occupied. About, As tastefully they swore within an hour: more correctly, she shouted, and It only occasionally inertly defended. In this squabble it Defended the rights of the friends (not girlfriends). Minutes on 15 they All the same have reconciled, and then again have begun to chatter on the same To the scenario. The desire to sleep has overcome my fear before the cheap Hotel - and I have knocked in a wall. And, present, a wall nearly Has failed under my low-power cam. About a hotel wall Was from a cardboard! And in the morning to me have informed, that the barman accepted me in hotel, and Not the porter, it was mistaken - and a payment for "smart" number (it The proprietress of hotel so has called my number from kartonki) Has increased several times. I will fairly tell: this night I in Paris did not feel myself, Sensation zatrapeznosti Russian provincial hotel Mixed up with feeling of fear (later my Parisian acquaintances Have explained, that to lonely women in such hotels To stop strictly it is not recommended). In the morning I have been transported by friends to my friends in The decent hotel, and Paris has begun to shine all former paints. 10 days In proud loneliness I investigated Paris and - be not surprised - It investigated me too. Several years ago I walked on Tbilisi. It is necessary to tell, that men-Parisians from tbilistsev not Differ anything: both there, and there 5 minutes alone - are joyful To behold local sights to Russian woman It is useless. At 12 o'clock in the morning in Paris me invited to look a samovar - The coeval of Tour d'Eiffel, in 20 minutes of acquaintance The professor of one Parisian high school has suggested to move to it: Thus - promised - I will fine save on hotel and A food. On the Champs Elysц e the professor Already London University has presented to me the self-instruction manual of the French language and in Current all the evening long selflessly told, how its pupil In the mid-eighties went in assistants at Kohl and has persuaded The chancellor to agree on association of Germany, though that in the beginning Strongly opposed. Unlike boastful Americans and cold Englishmen Frenchmen very greedy on dialogue. And unlike ours Men French easy react to refusal - all the same Smile and thank for walk, and try in every way To hand over you the cut-aways and an e-mail address. To talk Frenchmen like (women including) - in To informal conditions, at dinner with a small bottle of wine during 3-5 hours. If to them you address for the help - they blossom, As buds of a morning rose. At me constantly developed Impression, that I have made happy Parisians with the request to tell, How to drive in Sent-Zhenevev de Bua or to photograph me Near Tour d'Eiffel. When I have lost the way among the high-speed Trains, the young Frenchwoman took me for a hand and has taken away to To my express train, having passed the train. But thus at them goes surprising for us Specialised division of a society: if in Russia any The mechanic or the driver, and the physicist especially, among the French Writers Hugo will name and Stendalja, both Balzac, and Maupassant, and, And more freely 7-8 (since school times us learnt, that is Two great literatures - French and Russian), Frenchmen Are catastrophically uninteresting concerning everything, as to not Their trades. The most competent Frenchmen-technicians from Russian Writers named only one name - Lev Tolstoi. "But also Turgenev, and Bunin lived, liked and have died in Paris, Bunin even The Nobel Prize has received, living in France. Why you them not Know? "- I was surprised. The French businessman mese Cuba, by the way, very much The formed person who has worked 25 years with Soviet Union, Told, that he has learnt names of many French poets from Russian. High standard of living and zatsivilizovannost have killed in Frenchwomen individuality. A high heel and hats - The remote past, all go in trousers. Are guilty in it more likely In total cars - it is a lot of Frenchwomen daily happen for Wheel. Perhaps, for this reason Frenchmen-motorists Are polite and are always ready to make way for pedestrians. Russian for Border easily learn because they jump aside from cars: we In Russia, on the contrary, have got used to make way for cars, And, under any sign, even - "pedestrian crossing". Russian in Paris are not allocated for a long time already with awkwardness Clothes or the intimidated kind. We well-disposed ranks have entered in Structure of Europe. And ours "new Russian" do not look trite Fools, to Paris from Moscow there go the formed men in Suits from Versache. And here with what we cannot consult in any way, So it with interest to another's history and culture. The whole evening I It was pushed on Montmartre and observed: the foreign tourist Had a good time a potato fri and pozirovaniem itself liked before The local artist. Russian tourist, having opened a mouth, listened to the guide, with Awe touched vegetable marrow walls where revelled in Insole the French impressionist. Cezanne, Manet, Monet, Gauguin - It for us native surnames!. Absolutely weakened, with a bottle of a French perfume in Pocket and with a French wine bottle in a package from under clothes, I left Sheremetev on open spaces of the Russian capital. And not Was the person in Moscow which met half-way and would not push Me. In 10 minutes I have started - and, having pressed to a breast Bottle of a French perfume, has moved regardless of obstacles. In each country There are pluses and minuses. But our vagabonds can read Fields Verlaine in the original and by heart. Valentina OSTROUSHKO. Paris - Moscow - the Eagle. //* an information Source: the Parliamentary newspaper, 1.12.00 //* Reg. Nom. - 1101200010.32-------------------------------------------




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